Vol.11 ―Learning from France: The Future of Sustainable Fashion
“Fashion freedom does not mean freedom to waste.” Across Europe—especially in France—policies are now accelerating efforts to extend the lifespan of clothing through regulation.

Why fashion is being regulated

The fashion industry is becoming a target of regulation in Europe due to its environmental and social impacts:

• CO₂ emissions: Fashion accounts for about 10% of global emissions (more than aviation and shipping combined).
• Water consumption: Producing a single T-shirt requires around 2,700 liters of water (equivalent to three years of drinking water for one person).
• Waste: In the EU, about 4 million tons of textiles are incinerated or landfilled each year.
• Recycling rate: Less than 1% of textiles in the EU are recycled into new textiles.

France’s pioneering fashion regulations and systems

1. Repairability Index (since 2021)
   • Mandatory labeling system scoring “ease of repair” for electronics and appliances.
   • Now under discussion for expansion to clothing and footwear.
   • Goal: make product lifespan visible and counter a culture of disposability.
2. Ban on destroying unsold goods (2019)
   • France prohibits the destruction or incineration of unsold clothing.
   • Luxury brands are also included (strengthened after the Burberry burning scandal).
   • Retailers and manufacturers are obligated to resell, donate, or recycle unsold stock.
3. Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) for textiles
   • Apparel companies must take responsibility for reuse and collection.
   • Eco TLC (now Re_Fashion) supervises recycling and resource recovery.
   • Participating companies contribute fees proportional to sales.
4. Mandatory CSR and eco-labeling for fashion (planned, target 2025)
   • Future plans to introduce product labels showing an “environmental score” for clothing.
   • Factors: carbon footprint, water use, toxicity, etc.
   • Consumers will be able to judge environmental impact before purchasing.

EU-wide trend: Textiles Strategy 2030

In 2022, the European Commission released its EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles, setting a pathway for regulation and innovation across the sector.

Industry response (European companies leading)

Regulation as a foundation for competitiveness, not just restriction

In the EU and France, these regulations are seen as a “catalyst for circular innovation” rather than barriers.

Benefits include:

• Transition toward repair, rental, and subscription-based models.
• More cost-efficient to build in-house collection infrastructure than pay penalties or fees.
• Enhanced brand value, particularly in appealing to Gen Z with ethical positioning.

Lessons for Japan and Asia: bridging the gap between policy and market

• In Japan, incineration of textiles is still loosely regulated (much is counted as “thermal recovery”).
• Collection systems remain mostly voluntary; EPR lacks strong enforcement.
• Repair culture and the social status of secondhand clothing are not yet mainstream.

Implications for Japan:

• SMEs and regional brands can lead by designing repairable products.
• Local governments × private sector × educational institutions can collaborate to create circular markets.
• EU collaboration and regulatory alignment will be key to global competitiveness.

Conclusion: Fashion’s future will be reinvented through regulation

Fashion is shifting from “freedom of expression” to “responsibility of choice.” The driving force will be the integration of policy, innovation, and consumer awareness.